I think I have enjoyed reliving last Saturday's initial moistening of the boat more than I did the actual splash. I certainly have spent more time on it, fooling with videos and whatnot, and proving once again that I should stick to whatever it is I do well, once I figure that out, and not waste cycles trying to make videos.
At any rate, I learned some things. That is, I learned that there are more things I do not yet know:
- Turnbuckles come in several flavors, and they are locked down in various ways. But they all must be locked down, and if they're not, they want to come loose. No, this didn't happen while I was underway, it happened while trying to rig. I have researched things further, since, and determined to give the shroud turnbuckles more 'bite' by adding a toggle between the shroud and the turnbuckle -- or perhaps between the turnbuckle and the forward bulkhead-mounted eyestraps to which they attach. This will allow me to 'screw in' the turnbuckles more, and lock them down more confidently with a wrench and some kind of pin through the turnbuckle barrel. I'll devote twelve more posts to this, some other time. Try to contain your excitement.
- Light dinghies sailed in light airs require careful body weight placement in order to achieve something like good trim. I knew this part, but I didn't know what it felt like. It felt awkward. Since light airs are not unusual in these parts during our 3.5-month drier season, I must respond -- I think with a tiller extension, which will at least help me avoid reaching behind my back to steer the boat. That, and more cushions for the bottom of the boat, so that shifting around will be less damaging to my soul.
- I don't know where/how to stow the oars while not in use, which I hope will be most of the time. The way I had them, I couldn't lean back against the sides of the boat. If I wanted to sit up straight I'd still be kayaking ...
- "Going forward" -- in this case, to raise the jib after I sailed around a bit with just the main -- is tricky. Someone put a seat in the middle of the boat! Yes, the boat is stable for its ridiculously light weight -- about 100 pounds -- but one still can't stand up straight and skip up to the bow. So I scrambled. Perhaps scrambling is the best strategy. The alternative -- running halyards back to cleats on the center seat -- seems ridiculous on a 12-foot boat.
- The jib halyard block and the forestay are attached to a single eyestrap at the top of the mast. This works fine unless one adds a jib halyard to the mix. Rig it all up and the block and line are pinched firmly between the mast and the forestay, so that the halyard cannot run freely (or anything close to it). What were they thinking? Well, the design doesn't really call for a forestay -- it's optional. Optional pinched rigging. I'll be adding a second eyestrap just below the existing one and will attach the halyard block there. This will lower the head of the jib by a half-inch, and may cause me to lose several world-class regattas. Life is hard.
- Okay, one last item for now: I am pleasantly surprised at how well the gunter yard & all its rigging work. I think the parrel beads I invested in (got 'em at Duckworks for a song) are working very well. Watch this space for a fascinating essay.
Look closely below -- no, there is not a gremlin holding my right arm behind my back. It's just me jiggling the tiller. Gotta add that tiller extension ...
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